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[技术交流] DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(十七)

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Step 17: The box
第17步骤:仪器箱
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DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(十七) - 3D打印机网 - F3G887XHJ39PHQV_SMALL.jpg


我们需要为设备准备一个箱子,以隔离光线(避免光敏材料被外界光线照射)。同时还可以阻止外界的灰尘和杂质掉进设备或者样品上。
我们做了一个非常简单的外壳,一个木制的盒子,有门、检查窗。
材料:
薄木(我用的12mm厚纸板)
两个小铰链
8个12mm毫米长的木螺钉
1个小门把手
80mm电脑12V风扇
胶棒
Mat黑色喷漆
白漆(上次用了剩下的)
红色丙烯酸材料窗。
Lead wire black and red
黑色和红色的导线(电线)
工具:
铅笔
卷尺
直尺
曲线锯
热胶枪
方夹(少许)
游客,如果您要查看本帖隐藏内容请回复
然后用热胶枪将这些散件粘在一起。
在胶冷却后就可以给箱子上漆了,在上漆前你要试试小门是否好用。
你还需要注意两个位置会漏光,装风扇的位置和通气孔。所以需要把盒子尽量涂成黑色,这样可以吸收而不是反射光线。
我把外面涂成白色,把里面涂成黑色。这样可以在外面反射杂光,而在里面吸收杂光。并且将通气孔做成特殊的形状来隔离外面的杂光。
然后是安装检查窗和小门,要特别注意密封性以隔离杂光。
我建议你找两根够长的黑色和红色的导线。箱子做好后,当我准备接风扇时,发现我不得不钻进箱子去接线。你需要注意这个问题,提前把线接好。

本帖资料由   版dawnbird \srzxy42译 ,版主 zwltanf 采集。感谢二位为3D打印机DIY 事业的贡献!看来帖子拿了资料不回帖的!诅咒你们!!!树脂买到假货、投影聚焦有畸变还漏光、光源通电就废、电路板一碰就断!!”

DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(一)
DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(二)
DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(三)
DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(四)
DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(五)
DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(六)
DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(七)
DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(八)
DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(九)
DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(十)
DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(十一)
DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(十二)
DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(十三)
DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(十四)
DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(十五)
DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(十六)
DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(十七)
DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(十八)
DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(十九)
DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(二十)

Having build the printer we still need to protect it from all ambient light. Especially day light is no friend to the inners of our printer. But Also dust, pet hair etc. is to be kept far away from the workings of our printer. This means we need to put the printer in an enclosure.
we chose to have a very simple enclosure, a wooden box with  a door and a window to peep through.

Materials:
Wood sheet 12mm thick (I had some left over chipboard)
Two small hinges
8 12mm long wood screws
1 small doorknob
80mm computer fan 12V
Glue sticks
Mat black spray paint
White paint (this is a great project to spend those left over cans with paint on)
Red acrylic window.
Lead wire black and red

Tools:
Pencil
Tape measure
Ruler
Jigsaw
Hot glue gun
Brush
Square clamps (a few)
Drill


This is really intended as a 4 hour build, not the nicest thing I have ever made but ffunctionality. It is very important to keep in mind that the primary function of the box is to keep ambient light out. The printer works by curing the resin with light lets say of below a wavelength of 500nm. So we want to keep the entire spectrum from yellow down to UV out of our box. This greatly limits the choice of windows that you could put in.
Ours came from "Kunststofshop" this is a Dutch site but I'm sure they are happy to ship to where ever. We used Fluor red it's just a material that looks awesome on anything. Another plus for fluorescent materials is that they are highly UV absorbent. This is because the fluorescent dye absorbs short wavelength light and converts it into light of a longer wavelength.

Assembly:
Cut all materials to size with the jigsaw (see drawings). Take care when cutting out the hole for the window if you use chipboard. I would always advice to drill and cut as many of the large holes before cutting the contours. This so you can count on the strength of the bulk material.
Glue the box together with the hot glue gun, the most used saying on Flitetest "apply a bead of glue"
Once the glue has cooled you can paint the box and the door in a color of your choosing. Do not forget to test fit the door before doing the vigorous painting.

While the paint dries you can make the two light traps. One that traps light that could come in via the fan and one that traps light that could in from the air exit hole. It is very important to paint the insides of both light traps black. This will cause light that goes in to be absorbed rather than reflected thus effectively trapping the light.

I painted the whole box white, the outsides of the light traps white and the insides of the light traps mat black. Glossy black reflects a bit more light due to its shiny surface. After all the paint dried I glued the ventilator in the large light trap and then glued the light traps in to place.
Next I glued the acrylic window to the inside of the door with a generous amount of hot glue. My door has a nice tight fit in the doorway. So I placed the door in the doorway measured 1cm from the top and bottom and directly screwed on the hinges. I completely forgot about the doorknob which I realized after screwing on the hinges. This meant that I had to use some serious nail power to pry open my door.  I used the drill to poke a 5mm hole through the door where the doorknob was supposed to go and screwed the doorknob in to place.

I would advice you to put some long leads, one black and one red on your fan before you glue it in. With my enormous enthusiasm I found this out when I wanted to connect the fan to the power supply. Meaning I had to dive in the box and connect the leads in a very confined space.


回复 百度谷歌雅虎搜狗搜搜有道360奇虎

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好不容易 发表于 2013-9-14 14:58:19
77777777777777
borato 发表于 2014-10-31 14:27:52
Step 16: Measure and set up.第16步:测试与安装

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光电子端开关

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弹片

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弹片

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光电子端开关

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立体散热器

Ok it is best to remove any fragile parts for this step.
You will need:
The 3D printer without the basin
Computer
Beamer
Dial gauge
Calipers
piece of paper
Machine clamp (something heavy)

First think you want to do once you have installed the software and firmware is check for life. Make it move just a little bit, check if the opto swtich works etc.
好的,在这一步你最好把周围所有的小零件都拿开
你需要准备:
不含树脂的3d打印机、电脑、投影机、千分表、卡尺、一张纸、机械夹(有些是很重的)
首先你要知道一旦安装好软件和固件,就不能大改了,只能微调,还要检查光电子端开关是不是好的等等
First step:
Put in the correct parameters in creation workshop. You will need to tell how many steps the stepper motor has to make in order to rotate 360 deg. If you are using micro stepping the general formula is (micro steps)x(stepper steps) in our case 32x200.
You will also need to put in the pitch of your lead screw. One rotation of the lead screw will move the sled 1 pitch up. 5mm in our case.
Now the program should know that our lead screw moves 5mm every 6400 steps, or 0.00078125mm per step.
Yeah uber accuracy, well not really you can not really count on a micro step to be absolute. Check out this Link to learn more about micro stepper behaviour.
第一步:
调整正确的机械系数。你需要设定进步电机在旋转一周内要走多少步。如果你想用小步伐,那一般的计算公式就是(小步数)X(进步电机步数),我们就是32X200。
你还需要设定导螺杆的节距。导螺杆转一圈它就移动一个节距,在我们这就是5mm的距离。
所以在我们这就是每6400步走5mm,或者每一步走0.00078125mm。
想要更准确,这是需要计算每一小步到底是多少。如果你想学习更多关于微进步电机的话,请看这个链接(楼主没给)

Now make it move. First start by giving it a command to move 1mm. Then one more mm. Small steps easy does it. Once you feel more confident move 10mm, all the take making sure you will not crash in to the ends of your lead screw.
Once you feel really confident set up a move of 50mm but this time be read to put your piece of paper in the gap of the Opto switch.
Press go and while your lead screw is moving put the paper in the Opto. Your lead screw should stop immediately. Repeat this process until you feel confident that it really works.
Once your happy it is time to verify the performance of your Z axis.
现在开始让它动起来。首先给它一个命令让它动1mm,然后再走几个。小步都是很容易做到的。如果你觉得走10mm都没有什么问题了,你就只需要注意不要走到导螺杆的顶端从而伤到它。
如果你觉得走50mm都不是问题,就可以开始用一张纸放在光电开关之间来试验了。按上开关,你的导螺杆就推着纸移动到光电部件上。这时,你的导螺杆就应该突然停掉。多重复几次,直到你认为它没有问题了。

Attach your micro gauge to a machine clamp, something heavy and immovable. Set the tip of the gauge on your sled.
Now move the sled 1mm towards the gauge. Verify with the gauge that when you give the command to move 1mm the sled really moves 1mm. repeat this measurement until you are confident that when you want your sled to move a specified distance, it really moves this distance. You can also verify larger distances using your callipers.
在机械夹上安装一个测微距计,在它的头上再安装一个滑车。现在向测压机移动滑车1mm。用测微距计来确认这个滑车真的按照命令移动了1mm。重复的测试,直到你觉得你可以控制滑车准确的移动,然后再用卡尺来测量大范围的距离是不是也是准确的。
As a result we measured a repeatability of about 0.01mm plus minus 0.003mm so I am confident to say that we have a Z axis accurate to 0.01mm
我们测量的结果是重复的误差在0.01+-0.003mm,所以我们的机械在Z轴上可以说是能精确到0.01mm。
Once you are happy you can put back together the entire printer.
Now it is time to set the height of the home position, this is also the start position for every print.
Lower the build platform down in to the basin, with your piece of printing paper between your build window and build platform.
Be very care full this is a very critical step.
Move the stage down while wiggling the paper until you feel the paper catches between the platform and the build window. Now this is your ideal home position.
Do not forget to make sure that every thing moves in the right direction.


本帖隐藏的内容
现在你就可以安装整个打印机了。首先要设定你制作空间的高度,这也是每一次打印首先要想的地方。降低制作平台,使它浸入树脂中,把一张纸放在制作平台和制作窗口之间。下面这一步要非常的小心。。。还有,不要忘记要确保所有部件的移动方向都是正确的。

The thing we did here is we attached the Opto to a strip of aluminium which we then attached to the z-pillar.
The nice thing about these aluminium profiles is that you can simply slide in a T nut and move it up and down to set the correct position.
On the sled/stage we mounted an other strip of aluminium as a sort of finger.
With some manual bending we made sure the finger passes down the middle of the Opto.
Now when the opto is open it lights up green (there is a green indicator LED on it), when it is blocked the LED is turned off.
When the stage is in the ideal home position move the Opto up until the LED just turns off. In our case it dimmed but did not turn off completely.
Better safe than sorry.
我在这还做了一件事是把光电部件安装到了那块铝条上,这个铝条是连接Z柱的。这样的非常好的是铝的性质可以让它在T型螺母上滑动,上下移动来确认正确的位置。在橇板上我们嵌入了另外一个铝条作为弹片。用手掰一下,试试可以上弹片接触到光电部件的中间吗?现在,当光电部件打开的时候,它应该是亮绿色的(有一个LED绿色指示灯),如果有电路阻塞,LED就会灭掉。橇板从它的初始位置上向光电部件移动直到LED的灯灭掉。在我们这里,这个灯是变暗的,不是完全灭掉的。
不要事后追悔莫及。

Move the stage up until you can remove the basin.
Remove the basin and give the command for home. The stage should now move in the direction of the home position and stop the moment the finger is about half way in the Opto.
Once you are satisfied reinstall the basin and repeat the test.

If all worked out well you are now ready to print as soon as you provide some light shelter.

再向上移动这个橇板直到你能去掉树脂。去掉树脂后,在下命令让它回到原始位置。在移动的过程中,它会遇到弹片在半路上停下来。

你可以在加树脂,然后重复这个测试。
如果这些都没有什么问题,只要你能挡光的工具,就可以开始打印了。

carlhappy 发表于 2014-2-28 17:25:13
Step 16: Measure and set up.第16步:测试与安装
DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(十六)









DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(十六)









光电子端开关
DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(十六)









弹片
DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(十六)









弹片
DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(十六)









光电子端开关
DIY爱好者开源全套DLP投影成型技术的3D打印机资料(十六)









立体散热器

Ok it is best to remove any fragile parts for this step.
You will need:
The 3D printer without the basin
Computer
Beamer
Dial gauge
Calipers
piece of paper
Machine clamp (something heavy)

First think you want to do once you have installed the software and firmware is check for life. Make it move just a little bit, check if the opto swtich works etc.
好的,在这一步你最好把周围所有的小零件都拿开
你需要准备:
不含树脂的3d打印机、电脑、投影机、千分表、卡尺、一张纸、机械夹(有些是很重的)
首先你要知道一旦安装好软件和固件,就不能大改了,只能微调,还要检查光电子端开关是不是好的等等
First step:
Put in the correct parameters in creation workshop. You will need to tell how many steps the stepper motor has to make in order to rotate 360 deg. If you are using micro stepping the general formula is (micro steps)x(stepper steps) in our case 32x200.
You will also need to put in the pitch of your lead screw. One rotation of the lead screw will move the sled 1 pitch up. 5mm in our case.
Now the program should know that our lead screw moves 5mm every 6400 steps, or 0.00078125mm per step.
Yeah uber accuracy, well not really you can not really count on a micro step to be ABSolute. Check out this Link to learn more about micro stepper behaviour.
第一步:
调整正确的机械系数。你需要设定进步电机在旋转一周内要走多少步。如果你想用小步伐,那一般的计算公式就是(小步数)X(进步电机步数),我们就是32X200。
你还需要设定导螺杆的节距。导螺杆转一圈它就移动一个节距,在我们这就是5mm的距离。
所以在我们这就是每6400步走5mm,或者每一步走0.00078125mm。
想要更准确,这是需要计算每一小步到底是多少。如果你想学习更多关于微进步电机的话,请看这个链接(楼主没给)

Now make it move. First start by giving it a command to move 1mm. Then one more mm. Small steps easy does it. Once you feel more confident move 10mm, all the take making sure you will not crash in to the ends of your lead screw.
Once you feel really confident set up a move of 50mm but this time be read to put your piece of paper in the gap of the Opto switch.
Press go and while your lead screw is moving put the paper in the Opto. Your lead screw should stop immediately. Repeat this process until you feel confident that it really works.
Once your happy it is time to verify the performance of your Z axis.
现在开始让它动起来。首先给它一个命令让它动1mm,然后再走几个。小步都是很容易做到的。如果你觉得走10mm都没有什么问题了,你就只需要注意不要走到导螺杆的顶端从而伤到它。
如果你觉得走50mm都不是问题,就可以开始用一张纸放在光电开关之间来试验了。按上开关,你的导螺杆就推着纸移动到光电部件上。这时,你的导螺杆就应该突然停掉。多重复几次,直到你认为它没有问题了。

Attach your micro gauge to a machine clamp, something heavy and immovable. Set the tip of the gauge on your sled.
Now move the sled 1mm towards the gauge. Verify with the gauge that when you give the command to move 1mm the sled really moves 1mm. repeat this measurement until you are confident that when you want your sled to move a specified distance, it really moves this distance. You can also verify larger distances using your callipers.
在机械夹上安装一个测微距计,在它的头上再安装一个滑车。现在向测压机移动滑车1mm。用测微距计来确认这个滑车真的按照命令移动了1mm。重复的测试,直到你觉得你可以控制滑车准确的移动,然后再用卡尺来测量大范围的距离是不是也是准确的。
As a result we measured a repeatability of about 0.01mm plus minus 0.003mm so I am confident to say that we have a Z axis accurate to 0.01mm
我们测量的结果是重复的误差在0.01+-0.003mm,所以我们的机械在Z轴上可以说是能精确到0.01mm。
Once you are happy you can put back together the entire printer.
Now it is time to set the height of the home position, this is also the start position for every print.
Lower the build PLAtform down in to the basin, with your piece of printing paper between your build window and build platform.
Be very care full this is a very critical step.
Move the stage down while wiggling the paper until you feel the paper catches between the platform and the build window. Now this is your ideal home position.
Do not forget to make sure that every thing moves in the right direction.



本帖隐藏的内容
现在你就可以安装整个打印机了。首先要设定你制作空间的高度,这也是每一次打印首先要想的地方。降低制作平台,使它浸入树脂中,把一张纸放在制作平台和制作窗口之间。下面这一步要非常的小心。。。还有,不要忘记要确保所有部件的移动方向都是正确的。

The thing we did here is we attached the Opto to a strip of aluminium which we then attached to the z-pillar.
The nice thing about these aluminium profiles is that you can simply slide in a T nut and move it up and down to set the correct position.
On the sled/stage we mounted an other strip of aluminium as a sort of finger.
With some manual bending we made sure the finger passes down the middle of the Opto.
Now when the opto is open it lights up green (there is a green indicator LED on it), when it is blocked the LED is turned off.
When the stage is in the ideal home position move the Opto up until the LED just turns off. In our case it dimmed but did not turn off completely.
Better safe than sorry.
我在这还做了一件事是把光电部件安装到了那块铝条上,这个铝条是连接Z柱的。这样的非常好的是铝的性质可以让它在T型螺母上滑动,上下移动来确认正确的位置。在橇板上我们嵌入了另外一个铝条作为弹片。用手掰一下,试试可以上弹片接触到光电部件的中间吗?现在,当光电部件打开的时候,它应该是亮绿色的(有一个LED绿色指示灯),如果有电路阻塞,LED就会灭掉。橇板从它的初始位置上向光电部件移动直到LED的灯灭掉。在我们这里,这个灯是变暗的,不是完全灭掉的。
不要事后追悔莫及。

Move the stage up until you can remove the basin.
Remove the basin and give the command for home. The stage should now move in the direction of the home position and stop the moment the finger is about half way in the Opto.
Once you are satisfied reinstall the basin and repeat the test.

If all worked out well you are now ready to print as soon as you provide some light shelter.

再向上移动这个橇板直到你能去掉树脂。去掉树脂后,在下命令让它回到原始位置。在移动的过程中,它会遇到弹片在半路上停下来。

你可以在加树脂,然后重复这个测试。
如果这些都没有什么问题,只要你能挡光的工具,就可以开始打印了。
yunfengren 发表于 2013-8-9 05:53:22
沙发,究竟什么情况啊,看不到啊
beer-boy 发表于 2013-8-16 19:30:39
每篇顶一下,感谢各位!
hyh100000 发表于 2013-8-31 11:57:24
我去,怎么感觉想看电视剧,看到精彩的没了,等下集。。。。
tomkim 发表于 2013-9-8 20:25:06
随便搞个箱子套了得了
忆晗 发表于 2013-9-8 21:11:13
{:2_25:}ddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddd
可了可乐 发表于 2013-9-12 21:40:14
箱子太粗糙了
创立得3D打印 发表于 2013-9-15 10:16:29
受用了........
821379 发表于 2013-9-15 16:42:44
学习中,感谢分享资源
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